FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   78   79   80   81   82   83   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93   94   95   96   97   98   99   100   101   102  
103   104   >>  
u will be obliged to buy or borrow, although a great deal can be done with a good knife. Do not be satisfied with rough-looking pieces of apparatus. There are a few important tools needed for this work. While substitutes can be found for most of them, the boy who has access to a wood-working bench and tools will be able to do better and more rapid work than the boy who has no such tools. 283. List of tools. The following tools are needed, if rapid, accurate work is desired: (1.) Lead pencil. (2.) A rule, divided into sixteenths for measuring. A straight foot rule will do,--cost one cent. (3.) Steel point for scratching lines on tin and copper. A stout needle-point is just the thing. (4.) An awl for making holes in wood; one that is a little less than 1/8 in. in diameter is best. (See App. 25.) (5.) A try-square with a 6 in. blade, so that you can mark out your apparatus with square corners. You can use a square-cornered box or piece of pasteboard, if you have no try-square. (6.) Chisels are very useful, but you can do wonders with a good sharp knife. (7.) Screw-driver. Do not use a good knife-blade for a screw-driver. (8.) A saw, one with teeth that are not too coarse is to be preferred. (9.) A plane is extremely useful to make your wood-work smooth and neat; but a great deal can be done with the sharp edges of broken glass, followed by a good rubbing with fine sand-paper. (10.) A brace and a set of bits may be needed in 2 or 3 cases, but nearly all of the holes can be made as in App. 25. (11.) Punches for sheet-tin, etc., will save much time. (See App. 26, 27.) For small holes in binding-posts, etc., use a flat-ended punch, 1/8 in. in diameter. You should have one 1/4 or 5/16 in. in diameter, if you make your yokes, armatures, etc., as in Chapter VIII. A blacksmith will help you out with this. (12.) A center-punch or sharp-pointed punch for making dents in metal. A sharp-pointed wire nail will do for tin and copper. (13.) Files for metal. (14.) Some sort of a vice or clamp. (See App. 79, 80.) (15.) Shears for cutting sheet-tin, etc. A pair of old shears will do. (16.) An anvil or piece of old iron that may be used to hammer on to flatten tin, etc. An old flat-iron makes a good anvil. (17.) Hammer. The small hollow handle tool sets are very handy, and they contain small chisels, awls, screw-driver, etc. These sets cost from 50 cents up. _284. Materials._ For wood you will find the sides and ends of clean soap
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   78   79   80   81   82   83   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93   94   95   96   97   98   99   100   101   102  
103   104   >>  



Top keywords:
square
 

driver

 

diameter

 
needed
 

copper

 

making

 
apparatus
 

pointed

 

center

 
Punches

borrow

 

Chapter

 

armatures

 
obliged
 
blacksmith
 

binding

 

chisels

 

hollow

 
handle
 

Materials


Hammer

 

hammer

 

flatten

 

shears

 

Shears

 

cutting

 

scratching

 

straight

 

sixteenths

 

measuring


important

 

pieces

 
needle
 

divided

 

pencil

 
access
 

working

 

desired

 

substitutes

 

accurate


broken

 

smooth

 
preferred
 

extremely

 

rubbing

 
coarse
 

corners

 
satisfied
 
cornered
 
pasteboard