ract the dampness of the air at night. As soon as it was
dark, and the insects became troublesome, the Indians threw on the fire
branches that they cut fresh every day from shrubs growing on the banks.
This caused a pungent odour which effectually prevented insects from
making their way in through the leafy roof.

During the daytime the canoe was generally kept close to one shore or the
other, so as to be under the shade of the overhanging forest trees; at
night they sometimes tied up to a tree, but more often one or other of the
Indians sat in the stern of the boat giving an occasional stroke with his
paddle to keep her drifting down in the centre of the current. While it
was light they always had their guns close at hand, and sometimes brought
down a bird from the trees overhead. Baited hooks on a long line were
towed astern. They seldom caught anything during the day, but at night
they frequently captured a few fish. This, however, was more often done by
spearing them, the Indians having bought spears for the purpose at the
village. On these occasions Stephen took his place in the bow with two
lighted torches of resinous wood; the light attracted the fish, which were
speared by the Indians, who seldom missed striking them, however far
beneath the surface, though Stephen failed even to catch sight of them.

The fish formed the main staple of their food, helped out by the birds,
which were, for the most part, of the pigeon tribe, though larger and
differing much in plumage from the English species. They had brought from
Cuzco a hundred pounds of flour, which was sewed up in two skins, so that
in case of a misfortune to the canoe it would be uninjured by water. From
this the Indians made flat cakes, which were an excellent substitute for
bread.

For the first ten days Hurka while paddling generally sung Spanish songs
that he had picked up, but gradually he ceased doing so, and became as
taciturn as Pita himself.

"The Indians on this part of the river," he told Stephen, "are generally
of a peaceful nature, and are quite willing to trade, but, as we have no
merchandise, they would look upon us with some suspicion; and, moreover,
the tribes are often at war with each other, and in that case it is always
better that travellers should avoid them. Consequently it is better to
travel silently."

For the same reason they generally timed themselves so as to pass the
Indian villages at night, the fire on such occasions being