similar to those in New England;
but there were greater contrasts in table appointments. There was more
silver, and richer food; but the negro servants were so squalid, clumsy,
and uncouth that the incongruity made the meals very surprising and, at
times, repellent.

When dinners of some state were given in the larger towns, the table was
not set or served like the formal dinner of to-day, for all the sweets,
pastry, vegetables, and meats were placed on the table together, with a
grand "conceit" for the ornament in the centre. At one period, when
pudding was part of the dinner, it was served first. Thus an old-time
saying is explained, which always seemed rather meaningless, "I came
early--in pudding-time." There was considerable formality in portioning
out the food, especially in carving, which was regarded as much more
than a polite accomplishment, even as an art. I have seen a list of
sixty or seventy different terms in carving to be applied with exactness
to different fish, fowl, and meats. An old author says:--

"How all must regret to hear some Persons, even of quality say,
'pray cut up that Chicken or Hen,' or 'Halve that Plover'; not
considering how indiscreetly they talk, when the proper Terms are,
'break that Goose,' 'thrust that Chicken,' 'spoil that Hen,'
'pierce that Plover.' If they are so much out in common Things, how
much more would they be with Herons, Cranes, and Peacocks."

It must have required good judgment and constant watchfulness never to
say "spoil that Hen," when it was a chicken; or else be thought
hopelessly ill-bred.

There were few state dinners, however, served in the American colonies,
even in the large cities; there were few dinners, even, of many courses;
not always were there many dishes. There were still seen in many homes
more primitive forms of serving and eating meals, than were indicated by
the lack of individual drinking-cups, the mutual use of a trencher, or
even the utilization of the table top as a plate. In some homes an
abundant dish, such as a vast bowl of suppawn and milk, a pumpkin stewed
whole in its shell, or a savory and mammoth hotchpot was set, often
smoking hot, on the table-board; and from this well-filled receptacle
each hungry soul, armed with a long-handled pewter or wooden spoon,
helped himself, sometimes ladling his great spoonfuls into a trencher
or bowl, for more moderate and reserved after-consumption,--just as
frequently