nder and amazement of every passenger on board, Mount Vesuvius was
in brilliant action, and the flash of sparks and blazing lights from this
huge chimney top of Nature dazzled the beholder, and produced a fearful
sensation in the soul.

As the great jaws of the mountain opened its fiery lips and belched forth
molten streams of lava, shooting a million red hot meteors into the caves
of night, the earth and ocean seemed to tremble with the sound and birds
and beasts of prey rushed screaming and howling to their nightly homes.

Shakspere entranced stood on the bow of the ship and soliloquized:

_Great God! Almighty in thy templed realm;
And mysterious in thy matchless might;
Suns, moons, planets, stars, ocean, earth and air
Move in harmony at thy supreme will;
And yonder torch light of eternity,
Blazing into heaven, candle of omnipotence--
Lights thy poor, wandering human midgets--
An hundred miles at sea, with lofty hope--
That nothing exists or dies in vain;
But changed into another form lives on
Through countless, boundless, blazing, brilliant worlds
Beyond this transient, seething, suffering sod!_

At this moment the vessel struck the dock and lurched William out of his
reverie, coming "within an ace" of pitching the poet into the harbor of
Naples.

Captain O'Neil informed us that he would be engaged unloading and loading
his ship for a week or ten days at Naples, before he started for Sicily,
Greece and Egypt.

William and myself concluded to hire a guide and ride and tramp by land to
Rome, and view the ancient capital and test the hospitality of the
Italians.

Early the next morning we set out for the Imperial City, perched on her
seven hills, and enlightening the world with the radiance of her classic
memorials.

Our guide, Petro, was a villainous looking fellow, yet the landlord of the
Hotel Columbo told us he was well acquainted with the mountain bypaths and
open roads, and could, in the event of meeting robbers, be of great service
to us.

Petro wanted ten "florins" in advance, and wine and bread on the road; and
as we could not do any better, the bargain was made, and off we tramped
through the great city of Milan, scaling the surrounding hills and pulling
up as the sun went down at the town of Terracino.

After a good night's rest and hot breakfast, we started on horseback
through a mountain trail for the banks of the Tiber, but when within three
m