eshwater Bay, just as fancy may suggest. Some proceed on foot
from Freshwater-gate to the Needles Light-house (about three
miles), on the green sod, near the margin of the cliffs: other
parties again go round by the carriage-road the whole distance in
their vehicles. As, however, the grandest scenes can only be
visited by boat, we shall best perform our duty as Cicerone by
pointing them out as they appear in an aquatic excursion--that to
parties generally affords a degree of elevated pleasure to which
nothing else in the island can bear any comparison. Yet should the
weather be too rough for this to be enjoyed, the visit to
Freshwater may prove not the less interesting: since it is
impossible for any spectacle to exceed in sublimity that which is
displayed when a storm is raging around the majestic cliffs and
vast detached rocks that here encounter the winds and waves of the
British Channel:--

"Down bursts the gale--the surges sweep,
Like gathering hosts, against the steep,
Sheeting, with clouds of snowy spray,
Its lofty forehead, old and gray.
With sudden shriek and cowering wing,
To the wild cliff the sea-birds spring;
Careering o'er the darken'd heaven,
The clouds in warring heaps are driven;
And crested high with lawny foam,
Rushes the mighty billow home."

* * * * *

(Another Hotel is situated on the north side of the down, within sight
of the Needles, by whose name it is distinguished.)

[Illustration: WATCOMBE BAY _FRESHWATER ISLE OF WIGHT._]

From Watcombe Bay the precipices continue to increase in height till
they reach their greatest elevation (617 feet) at HIGH-DOWN, on which
the beacon is erected: they are however less perpendicular here than we
shall presently find them; and the more sloping portions are covered by
extensive patches of turf, samphire, &c., which vary the pure white of
the upright masses, though perhaps the lofty appearance of the whole is
thereby rather diminished, at least to a spectator at their base.
Amongst the most remarkable objects in this part of the range are
NEPTUNE'S CAVE, and LORD HOLMES'S PARLOUR:--the latter, a cavern of
considerable height and breadth, derives its name from the nobleman,
whose name it bears, having occasionally enjoyed a repast with his
friends in the briny coolness of its shade, at least so tradition tells
us: