a ball at the palace, which was at least once a
week from the beginning of the year to the end of Carnival.

Nor were the amusements thus liberally provided by any means to be
despised. There was a magnificent suite of rooms, with a really grand
ball-room, all magnificently lighted; there was a large and very
excellent band; there was a great abundance of card-tables, with all
needed appurtenances, in several of the rooms; ices and sherbets and
bonbons and tea and pastry were served in immense profusion during the
whole evening. At one o'clock the supper-rooms were opened, and there
was a really magnificent supper, with "all the delicacies of the
season," and wine in abundance of every sort. And the old hands, who
would appear knowing, used to say to new-comers, "Never mind the
champagne--you can get that anywhere--but stick to the Rhine wine: it
comes from the old boy's own vineyards." To tell the truth, the scene
at that supper used to be a somewhat discreditable one. The spreading
of such a banquet before such an assemblage of animals as had gone up
into that ark was a leading them into unwonted temptation which was
hardly judicious. Not that the foreigners were by any means the worst
offenders against decent behavior there. If they carried away bushels
of bonbons in their loaded pockets, the Italians would consign to the
same receptacles whole fowls, vast blocks of galantine, and even
platefuls of mayonnaise, packed up in paper brought thither for the
purpose. They were like troops plundering a taken town. Despite the
enormous quantity of loot thus carried off, inexhaustible fresh
supplies refurnished the board again and again till all were
satisfied. I never saw English or Americans pocket aught save
bonbons, which seemed to be considered fair game on all sides, but the
quantity of these that I have seen made prizes of was something
prodigious.

The grand duchess had hardly more to say for herself than the grand
duke, and her manner was less calculated to please her visitors. That
which in the grand duke was evidently shyness and want of ready wit,
took in the grand duchess the appearance of _hauteur_ and the distant
manner due to pride. She was a sister of the king of Naples, and was
liked by no one. The one truly affable member of the court circle,
whose manner and bearing really had something of royal grace and
graciousness, was the dowager grand duchess, the widow of the late
grand duke, who to all outward ap