s given in
"BEETON'S DICTIONARY of UNIVERSAL INFORMATION:"--"It probably
originated from the custom of _Cymhortha_, or the friendly aid,
practised among farmers. In some districts of South Wales, all
the neighbours of a small farmer were wont to appoint a day when
they attended to plough his land, and the like; and, at such
time, it was the custom for each to bring his portion of leeks
with him for making the broth or soup." (_See_ ST. DAVID.)
Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle of
Cressy. The plant, when grown in Wales and Scotland, is sharper
than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to
that of the onion in broth. It is very wholesome, and, to
prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.

MACARONI SOUP.

135. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.

_Mode_.--Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a pinch
of salt, and simmer for 1/2 an hour. When it is tender, drain and cut it
into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock. Stew
gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

[Illustration: MACARONI.]

MACARONI.--This is the favourite food of Italy, where,
especially among the Neapolitans, it may be regarded as the
staff of life. "The crowd of London," says Mr. Forsyth, "is a
double line in quick motion; it is the crowd of business. The
crowd of Naples consists in a general tide rolling up and down,
and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies of men. You are
stopped by a carpenter's bench, you are lost among shoemakers'
stalls, and you dash among the _pots of a macaroni stall_." This
article of food is nothing more than a thick paste, made of the
best wheaten flour, with a small quantity of water. When it has
been well worked, it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel,
pierced with holes of the size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom.
Through these holes the mass is forced by a powerful screw
bearing on a piece of wood made exactly to fit the inside of the
cylinder. Whilst issuing from the holes, it is partially baked
by a fire placed below the cylinder, and is, at the same time,
drawn away and hung over rods p