be cut and formed
into any shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams require
the same care and attention in the boiling as marmalade; the slightest
degree of burning communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and if
they are not boiled sufficiently, they will not keep. That they may
keep, it is necessary not to be sparing of sugar.

1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-pan
is used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unless
the jam is made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the pan
is placed close on to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, and
the colour and flavour be consequently spoiled.

1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with
sugar, concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid,
upon cooling, assumes the form of a tremulous jelly.

1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup,
after which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire;
the syrup is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, and
the fruit dipped in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy:
they are then to be put into boxes, and kept dry.

1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform
mass with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtues
and properties of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits,
unaltered, and as near as possible to what they were when fresh
gathered, and to give them an agreeable taste.

1507. The last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation of
fruit, is the _compote,_ a confiture made at the moment of need, and
with much less sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They are
most wholesome things, suitable to most stomachs which cannot
accommodate themselves to raw fruit or a large portion of sugar: they
are the happy medium, and far better than ordinary stewed fruit.

CONFECTIONARY.

1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all the
various preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under that
head; for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, roots, and juices, which,
when boiled with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as
for sweetmeats, were called _confections_, from the Latin word
_conficere_, 'to make up;' but the term confectionary embraces a very
large class indeed of sweet food, many kinds of which should not be
atte