Salisbury, by night; but before I come to the town, I saw a great
fortification, and there 'light, and to it and in it; and find it
prodigious, so as to frighten me to be in it all alone at that time of
night, it being dark. I understand, since, it to be that, that is called
Old Sarum. Come to the George Inne, where lay in a silk bed; and very
good diet. To supper; then to bed.

11th (Thursday). Up, and W. Hewer and I up and down the town, and find
it a very brave place. The river goes through every street; and a most
capacious market-place. The city great, I think greater than Hereford.
But the Minster most admirable; as big, I think, and handsomer than
Westminster: and a most large Close about it, and houses for the
Officers thereof, and a fine palace for the Bishop. So to my lodging
back, and took out my wife and people to shew them the town and Church;
but they being at prayers, we could not be shown the Quire. A very good
organ; and I looked in, and saw the Bishop, my friend Dr. Ward. Thence
to the inne; and there not being able to hire coach-horses, and not
willing to use our own, we got saddle-horses, very dear. Boy that went
to look for them, 6d. So the three women behind W. Hewer, Murford, and
our guide, and I single to Stonage; over the Plain and some great hills,
even to fright us. Come thither, and find them as prodigious as any
tales I ever heard of them, and worth going this journey to see. God
knows what their use was! they are hard to tell, but yet maybe told.
Give the shepherd-woman, for leading our horses, 4d. So back by Wilton,
my Lord Pembroke's house, which we could not see, he being just coming
to town; but the situation I do not like, nor the house promise much, it
being in a low but rich valley. So back home; and there being 'light,
we to the Church, and there find them at prayers again, so could not see
the Quire; but I sent the women home, and I did go in, and saw very many
fine tombs, and among the rest some very ancient, of the Montagus.

[The Montacutes, from whom Lord Sandwich's family claimed descent:
--B.]

So home to dinner; and, that being done, paid the reckoning, which was
so exorbitant; and particular in rate of my horses, and 7s. 6d. for
bread and beer, that I was mad, and resolve to trouble the master about
it, and get something for the poor; and come away in that humour: L2 5s.
6d. Servants, 1s. 6d.; poor, 1s.; guide to the Stones, 2s.; poor woman
in the street, 1s.;