uniformly low and monotonous, save where the green
mountains of Vermont dimly define the eastern horizon.
Arrived at Montreal, Mrs. Sackville, from consideration for Mrs. Barton,
determined to avoid delay, and therefore deferred the examination of
this city, so singular and picturesque to an American eye, till their
return from Quebec. There was, however, no boat to sail before the
evening, and a half day of leisure afforded our industrious travellers
an opportunity to visit the churches and convents of Montreal.
The churches are spacious, and decorated with gaudy tinselled ornaments,
and indifferent pictures. Edward and Julia were dazzled and delighted
with the seeming splendor. A little demure Presbyterian girl, who acted
as their guide, smiled at the animated expressions of their wonder.
"Notre Dame, is," she said, "as my grandmother often says, just fit for
a baby-house for children."
This remark caused a sudden revulsion in Edward's mind. He had a truly
manly, or rather boyish aversion to be suspected of a juvenile taste,
and averting his eye from his conductor, it fell on a miserable,
half-famished looking old woman, who was kneeling in one of the aisles
absorbed in her devotions.
"Look there, mother," said he, pointing to the wretched object, "what
a contrast to all this pomp.--It reminds me of an anecdote I have
somewhere read of a pious pilgrim to whom one of the popes was
ostentatiously displaying the decorations of the Vatican.
"Dites a ces ornemens," said the pilgrim, "de se changer en pain."[4]
[4] Command these decorations to be changed into bread.
Quite satisfied with this display of his superiority to the childishness
indirectly ascribed to him by his conductor, though it was entirely lost
on her, Edward left the church, and attended his friends to the Hotel
Dieu, the convent of the black nuns. They were shown the different
apartments by one of the sisterhood, a well-bred Irish lady, whose fine
intelligent dark eyes, benevolent and happy expression of countenance,
and short plump figure, made a delightful impression on Edward and
Julia, who had always fancied a nun must be tall and thin, with a sad
solemn face, condemned to wither under an immoveable veil. She led them
to the hospital where the sick of every nation are received and treated
with equal kindness according to the law of christian benevolence, which
is of universal obligation.
"Do the rules of your order, (the order of St. J
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