and there
on a moonlight night you'll see the white pillars all standing in rows,
like so many wax lights: and, if one looks down from above, it's half
enough to put thoughts into a man's head of throwing himself down."

"I protest," said Bertram, "you make my head giddy with your
description."

"Aye, but don't be giddy just yet: for we are now going over a narrow
path; and there's a precipice below. Here, give me your hand. So!--Now
turn to the right: now two steps up: and now take my arm; for it's so
dark under these walls--that you'll be apt to stumble."

Both advanced in this way for some hundred paces, when suddenly his
guide stopped, and said:

"Here we are at last: and my term of 'service' is out. This is the
_Walladmor Arms_; and it is decidedly the best inn in the town; for
there is no other."

If any courteous reader has ever, in the May-time of his own life or in
the May-time of the year, made a pedestrian tour among the northern or
western mountains of our island, he will understand what was in
Bertram's mind at this moment--a vision of luxurious refreshment and
rest after a hard day's fatigue, disturbed by anxious doubts about the
nature of his reception. In this state he laid his hand upon the latch;
and perhaps the light of the door-lamp, which at this moment fell upon
his features, explained to his guide what was passing in his mind; for
he drew him back by the arm, and said----

"One word of advice before we part: even the 'servant' may presume to
counsel his 'master' as he is quitting his service. The landlord within
is not one of those landlords who pique themselves on courtesy: and the
gentleman tourist, with submission be it said, is not one of those
tourists who travel with four horses,--or even by the stage-coach: and
foot-travellers in England, especially in the winter season, do not
meet with 'high consideration.' Which premises weighed,--if you were to
ask for a night's lodging at your first entrance, I bet ten to one that
you will get none; no, not though the house were as empty as it is
probably full by the infernal din. But do what I tell you: Call for
ale, porter, or wine, the moment you enter. As fast as your reckoning
mounts, so fast will the frost thaw about the landlord's heart. Go to
work in any other way, and I'll not answer for it but you'll have to
lie in the street."

With full determination to pay attention to his advice, Bertram again
laid his hand upon the latch; opene