miles an hour. Banks getting lower.
Cottonwoods, some brulee (burned-over forest). Supper 6 P.M.
Ran until 9.45 P.M. Damp camp.

"_May 31st._--Off at 6. In the morning men on the first boat
killed a cow moose and two calves. No game laws north of
53 deg. Men rejoice over meat. Eight mission scows in fleet,
which carry eight to ten tons each. Father Le Fevre says,
except for whitefish, all northern missions would perish. At
2.15 stopped at Pelican Portage, at head of Pelican Rapids,
120 miles below the landing. Head winds yesterday, but
favorable now. Two boats collided, and one damaged. Saw two
dogs carrying packs--first pack-dogs I ever saw. Priest
baptized an Indian baby here. I suppose this is what the
brigade goes north for, in part. Lay here until 7 in the
evening, and then off for our first rapids, the Pelican.
Rough, but not so bad as Columbia Big Bend Rapids. An
eighteen-foot canoe would go through; twelve-foot doubtful.
Scows do it easily. Fast work close to the shore part of the
way. Men know their business. Some system to the brigade.
Camp at foot of rapids. Much excitement. Scows crowding one
another. Many mosquitoes.

"_June 1st, Sunday._--No travel to-day. All of the boatmen
are Catholics. The priest put up a little chapel and said
Mass. Curious scene to see all these half-savages kneeling,
hats off, on the ground. After Mass a good many of them got
their hair cut; one or two men can do barbering-work. The
judge and legal party played cards all the afternoon. John
seems to eat more than ever. A good many mosquitoes.

"_June 2d._--Off at 6, which seems regular starting-time.
Ashore for lunch 11.30. Slow and lazy work floating down,
but pleasant. Tied up at 6 for supper. Much excitement now,
as we are coming down to the head of Grand Island, where we
make the big portage. After supper made a mile or so through
shallow water among many rocks, to the head of the island.
It is low and rocky, covered with cottonwoods, should think
about a mile long, and not over half a mile wide. Very
fierce water to the left, with quiet water above. No boat
ever ran the left channel alive. Many lost here in the
Klondike; they went into that quiet and deep water on the
left and got caught. They say we will try to run the
right