thing more than lay to as long as we
could, and, to meet the boat, was utterly impracticable. In a shorter
time, however, than could be imagined, from the heavy sea running, the
little boat, taken, like a cork, on the top of a wave half way up our
mast, then carried down again so near our keel, that, a rope could
hardly reach her, jumped, and sank, and tumbled by some agency or other,
for the men did not pull, to the lee-gangway, and our three men leaped
on board with a Swedish fisherman. To our questions the Swede replied,
through King, that he was not a pilot, and would not attempt to take the
cutter within the reef until daylight, and that we must weather out the
gale where we were. These were no gratifying tidings to hear on such a
dark and boisterous night; but, in this part of Europe, Aurora soon
shows her rosy face; and, before I was up the following morning, the
yacht was safely at anchor in comparatively smooth water.
The reef of rocks, which forms the only roadstead at Falkenborg, circles
in the shape of a horse-shoe, having but one inlet. It is sunk half a
foot under water, so that a heavy surf is always broken before it
reaches a vessel lying in the centre of this curious bay. The channel
into it is not more than twenty or thirty feet in breadth.
After breakfast, we rowed ashore in the gig. In compensation for the
abatement of wind, the rain fell determinately, and in such big drops,
that, not all the coats and cloaks we put on, could keep us dry. P----
however, had gone by daylight into the town, and hired a carriole, which
was to take us some distance into the neighbouring country, where, it
was said, a celebrated salmon-stream ran.
On our arrival in the town of Falkenborg, a guard of several men, with
drawn swords, received us; but what their motive was in honouring us
with their protection, we could not conceive. Wherever we went, these
men kept close to our heels, nor faltered in the strictest observance of
every military evolution. This seeming honour amounted, at length, to
extreme pertinacity, and became offensive to our freedom; for, it not
only excited the curiosity of numberless dogs, that barked, and the
admiration of ragged children, who pointed at us as we passed; but, if
R----, or P----, or I, walked into a fisherman's hut, or any humbler
dwelling, to inquire the way, a man, with unsheathed sword, and scowling
brow, would step from this redoubted phalanx, and place himself on the
threshol
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