es apart,
to allow a space for the spine.

I prefer myself to fit in the backboard by means of stops on the floor
and back of the well, making it keep one position, and that at a
considerable slope, and have not found a swinging backboard so
comfortable as some appear to have done.

For the paddle, for which I think about 7 feet 6 inches long over all
is a good length, take a light, clean piece of yellow pine, or fir,
1-1/2 x 1-1/4 inches, not more, and 6 feet long. In the ends of this cut
slots 6 inches long, each to receive two pear-shaped pieces of very
light half-inch plank, 1 foot 3 inches by 8 inches. Nail them through
with copper nails, if possible. The blades should be at right angles
to the thickest direction of the handle.

Before nailing in, shave down the handle from an oval of 1-1/2 x 1-1/4
inches for 2 feet of the middle to an oval of about 1-1/8 x 7/8 inches
near the beginning of the blades.

The handle should have its full thickness at the beginning of the blade,
but should be well tapered off along the blade, so as to be quite thin
at its middle, where it ends. It should have its full breadth across the
breadth of the blade. The blade itself may be shaved off thinner toward
the edges.

I do not think that for ordinary purposes any strip of copper or tin
need be put round the blade, and the weight is increased by using.

The great thing about a paddle is that it should be as light as
possible, and, if it appears able to stand it, it may be reduced still
further. It may be painted or varnished, all but two feet in the middle.
I find no rings on the paddles necessary.

A short strip nailed outside the gunwale in the middle of the canoe is a
good thing; it prevents wear from the paddle, and forms something to
catch hold of in lifting the canoe.

A short outer keel is also a good thing at each end to prevent wear; but
in making holes for the nails through the canvas into the keel care must
be taken to turn in the edges round each hole, to tack with a close
circle of tacks, and paint well, so as to render the place water-tight.

An apron is seldom wanted, but may be made of canvas rendered waterproof
with boiled oil, if desired.

It is well to fasten some inflated bladders in each end, so as to make
the canoe a diminutive lifeboat, in case of an upset or of a hole being
knocked in her.

The canoe will now be ready for launching. The owner should learn to put
her carefully into the water and take