or brightness and variety of the colors. The
removal of tenants rarely occurred, and consequently, it was easy to
preserve and perpetuate any particular set, or pattern, even among the
lower orders. The plaid was made of fine wool, with much ingenuity in
sorting the colors. In order to give exact patterns the women had before
them a piece of wood with every thread of the stripe upon it. Until
quite recently it was believed that the plaid, philibeg and bonnet
formed the ancient garb. The philibeg or kilt, as distinct from the
plaid, in all probability, is comparatively modern. The truis,
consisting of breeches and stockings, is one piece and made to fit
closely to the limbs, was an old costume. The belted plaid was a piece
of tartan two yards in breadth, and four in length. It surrounded the
waist in great folds, being firmly bound round the loins with a leathern
belt, and in such manner that the lower side fell down to the middle of
the knee joint. The upper part was fastened to the left shoulder with a
large brooch or pin, leaving the right arm uncovered and at full
liberty. In wet weather the plaid was thrown loose, covering both
shoulders and body. When the use of both arms was required, it was
fastened across the breast by a large bodkin or circular brooch. The
sporan, a large purse of goat or badger's skin, usually ornamented, was
hung before. The bonnet completed the garb. The garters were broad and
of rich colors, forming a close texture which was not liable to wrinkle.
The kilted-plaid was generally double, and when let down enveloped the
whole person, thus forming a shelter from the storm. Shoes and stockings
are of comparatively recent times. In lieu of the shoe untanned leather
was tied with thongs around the feet. Burt, writing about the year 1727,
when some innovations had been made, says: "The Highland dress consists
of a bonnet made of thrum without a brim, a short coat, a waistcoat
longer by five or six inches, short stockings, and brogues or pumps
without heels * * * Few besides gentlemen wear the truis, that is, the
breeches and stockings all of one piece and drawn on together; over this
habit they wear a plaid, which is usually three yards long and two
breadths wide, and the whole garb is made of checkered tartan or
plaiding; this with the sword and pistol, is called a _full dress_, and
to a well proportioned man with any tolerable air, it makes an agreeable
figure."[2] The plaid was the undress of the