t the first glance, its venerable
aspect, vast proportions, and dignity of outline, do not sufficiently
seize upon the imagination; but, as the eye travels over the elaborate
facade, formed by successive galleries supported by truncated pillars,
these galleries in their turn resting on clustered columns of richest
sculpture forming the triple portals--the fine inlaid work, statues,
bass-relief, arabesques of fruit, foliage, and quaint animals--the
dome, and, above all, the campanile--light and airy as a dream,
springing upward on open arches where the sun burns hotly--the eye
comes to understand what a glorious Gothic monument it is.

The three portals are now open. From the lofty atrium raised on broad
marble steps, with painted ceiling and sculptured walls--at one end a
bubbling fountain falling into a marble basin, at the other an arched
gate-way leading into grass-grown cloisters--the vast nave is visible
from end to end. This nave is absolutely empty. Every thing tells of
expectation, of anticipation. The mighty Lombard pillars on either
side--supporting a triforium gallery of circular arches and slender
pillars of marble fretwork, delicate as lace--are wreathed and
twined with red taffetas bound with golden bands. The gallery of the
triforium itself is draped with arras and rich draperies. Each dainty
column is decked with flags and pennons. The aisles and transepts
blaze with gorgeous hangings. Overhead saints, prophets, and martyrs,
standing immovable in the tinted glories of the stained windows,
fling broad patches of purple, emerald, and yellow, upon the intaglio
pavement.

Along the nave (a hedge, as it were, on either side) are hung curtains
of cloth of gold.

The high altar, inclosed by a balustrade of colored marble raised
on steps richly carpeted, glitters with gemmed chalices and crosses.
Behind, countless wax-lights illuminate the rich frescoes of the
tribune. The Chapel of the Holy Countenance (midway up the nave),
inclosed by a gilded net-work, is a dazzling mountain of light flung
from a thousand golden sconces. A black figure as large as life rests
upon the altar. It is stretched upon a cross. The eyes are white
and glassy; the thorn-crowned head leans on one side. The body
is enveloped in a damascened robe spangled with jewels. This robe
descends to the feet, which are cased in shoes of solid gold. The
right foot rests on a sacramental cup glittering with gems. On either
side are angels, with a