8
inches, and the cuffs, turned back to meet the sleeves, were wider
still. Two, three, or even more buttons held the cuff back.

The pockets on the coats were cut vertically and horizontally, and
these also might be buttoned up. Often the coat was held by only two
centre buttons, and the waistcoat flaps were not buttoned at all. The
men's and women's muffs were small, and often tied and slung with
ribbons.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of William and Mary}]

Plain round riding-coats were worn, fastened by a clasp or a couple of
large buttons.

The habit of tying the neckcloth in a bow with full hanging ends was
dying out, and a more loosely tied cravat was being worn; this was
finished with fine lace ends, and was frequently worn quite long.

[Illustration: {Three men of the time of William and Mary}]

Stockings were pulled over the knee, and were gartered below and
rolled above it.

The ordinary citizen wore a modified edition of these clothes--plain
in cut, full, without half the number of buttons, and without the
tremendous periwig, wearing merely his own hair long.

For convenience in riding, the skirts of the coats were slit up the
back to the waist; this slit could be buttoned up if need be.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of William and Mary; a shoe}]

Now, let us give the dandy of this time his pipe, and let him go in
peace. Let us watch him stroll down the street, planting his high
heels carefully, to join two companions outside the tobacco shop.
Here, by the great carved wood figure of a smoking Indian with his
kilt of tobacco leaves, he meets his fellows. From the hoop hung by
the door one chooses a pipe, another asks for a quid to chew and a
spittoon, the third calls for a paper of snuff newly rasped. Then they
pull aside the curtains and go into the room behind the shop, where,
seated at a table made of planks upon barrels, they will discuss the
merits of smoking, chewing, and snuffing.

'We three are engaged in one cause,
I snuffs, I smokes, and I chaws.'

THE WOMEN

Let me picture for you a lady of this time in the language of those
learned in dress, and you will see how much it may benefit.

'We see her coming afar off; against the yew hedge her weeds shine for
a moment. We see her figuretto gown well looped and puffed with the
monte-la-haut. Her echelle is beautiful, and her pinner exquisitely
worked. We can see her commode, her top-not, and her fontage, for sh