Kau is a rich, luxuriant spot, surrounded by
desolate fields of scoriae, which renders it difficult of access. We are
situated six miles from the sea, sufficiently elevated to give us a
commanding view of its vast expanse of waters. We can occasionally spy a
sail floating like a speck on its surface. From the shore, the country
gradually rises into a range of verdant mountains, whose summits appear to
touch the clouds. Proceeding northward toward Hilo, there is a gradual
rise, until you reach the Great Volcano, about six miles distant. In
making the tour to Hilo, we camped here the second night, on the brink of
the burning gulf. Suppose a vast area of earth, as large as the bay of
New-York, to have fallen in to the depth of several thousand feet. At the
bottom of this great cauldron, you behold the liquid fire boiling and
bubbling up, partly covered with a thick black scum. There are two or
three inner craters, which have been formed by the lava cooling on its
sides while the liquid sunk below. The gentlemen mostly descended into
this crater, but I was fully satisfied with a look from above. The earth
is cracked all around at the top, and portions of it are continually
falling in. Steam issues from open places in all the region. This volcano
has been in action from time immemorial, as the natives all assert, and
has been with them an object of idolatrous worship. The range of mountains
continues for some thirty miles beyond this, and terminates in the
snow-capped summit of Mounadoa. This mountain is in full sight at Hilo,
and about thirty miles distant. Since we have been here it has been the
scene of the most wonderful volcanic eruptions ever yet seen on this
island. Mr. P----, in company with Mr. C----, visited it a week or two
since, and ascended the mountain to the old crater, from whence the flood
of lava proceeded. Fire has not been seen in it within the remembrance of
the oldest natives. An immense river of burning lava is at this time
running down the side of the mountain, in a subterraneous channel, from
three to four miles wide. They had a good view of it through air-holes in
the lava, over which they were walking, which was like a sea of glass;
frequently sinking in different places in consequence of the intense heat
below. It will probably yet find its way to the surface somewhere, and,
laying prostrate every thing that opposes it, pursue its devastating
course to the sea. Truly we live in a world of wonders!'