ht, and to those who know that they are ignorant (and
this is a vast step to knowledge) he offers his counsels, his active
co-operation, his frank and kindly sympathy. The Agent's qualifications
are these:-- '1. He is of one of the best families in England; and has
in himself, or through his ancestors, been accustomed to good living
for centuries. In the reign of Henry V., his maternal
great-great-grandfather, Roger de Gobylton' [the name may be varied, of
course, or the king's reign, or the dish invented], 'was the first
who discovered the method of roasting a peacock whole, with his
tail-feathers displayed; and the dish was served to the two kings at
Rouen. Sir Walter Cramley, in Elizabeth's reign, produced before
her Majesty, when at Killingworth Castle, mackerel with the famous
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE, &c.'

"2. He has, through life, devoted himself to no other study than that of
the table: and has visited to that end the courts of all the monarchs of
Europe: taking the receipts of the cooks, with whom he lives on terms of
intimate friendship, often at enormous expense to himself.

"3. He has the same acquaintance with all the vintages of the Continent;
having passed the autumn of 1811 (the comet year) on the great Weinberg
of Johannisberg; being employed similarly at Bordeaux, in 1834; at
Oporto, in 1820; and at Xeres de la Frontera, with his excellent
friends, Duff, Gordon and Co., the year after. He travelled to India and
back in company with fourteen pipes of Madeira (on board of the Samuel
Snob' East Indiaman, Captain Scuttler), and spent the vintage season in
the island, with unlimited powers of observation granted to him by the
great houses there.

"4. He has attended Mr. Groves of Charing Cross, and Mr. Giblett of
Bond Street, in a course of purchases of fish and meat; and is able at
a glance to recognize the age of mutton, the primeness of beef, the
firmness and freshness of fish of all kinds.

"5. He has visited the parks, the grouse-manors, and the principal
gardens of England, in a similar professional point of view."

The Agent then, through his subordinates, engages to provide gentlemen
who are about to give dinner-parties--"1. With cooks to dress the
dinners; a list of which gentlemen he has by him, and will recommend
none who are not worthy of the strictest confidence.

"2. With a menu for the table, according to the price which the
Amphitryon chooses to incur.

"3. He will, through correspondence