the nave, which was
where the grave-yard now stands. It's curious, isn't it, how the
centuries alter things! Now, step over here, out of the way of the
door, and let me tell you a bit about this old church and its founder.
This Rahere was the King's jester, who came to see the error of his
ways, grew very religious, and went on a pilgrimage. While on his
journey back, he became seriously ill, and turned to St. Bartholomew
for healing, promising to build a hospital for poor men if his
petition were granted. He was cured, and on his return to London, he
built the hospital and also this church, in which he is himself
buried."

They were all delighted with this story, and went immediately to find
Rahere's tomb, of which the ancient effigy is covered by a fine canopy
of much later date. One other tomb is that of Sir Walter Mildmay, who
was Chancellor of the Exchequer to Queen Elizabeth, and founder of
Emmanuel College, Oxford. John discovered the following quaint
epitaph, which greatly amused the entire party:

"Shee first deceased, Hee for a little Tryd,
To live without her, likd it not, and dyd."

This adorns the tomb of John and Margaret Whiting, in the north
transept.

Some time was passed in this wonderful church,--climbing the tiny,
spiral stairs up to the clerestory, and going cautiously along the bit
of a walk at this dizzy height above the floor of the church.

It needs time and much study to appreciate this sad old church, which,
in spite of its broken pieces of marble, and ruined splendor and
perfection of form, still bravely stands,--a lonely and pathetic relic
of its grand past. A young person can scarcely understand it at all;
it needs a grown man or woman whose experience enables him to read in
the crumbling pillars and walls, stories of the times when England was
young, the Church was the great glory and power, and there still lived
men who were "fair and fortunate."

In the vicinity of Smithfield are a number of quaint nooks and corners
of old London. Many consider that the very best idea of the ancient
city may now be had in Cloth Fair and Bartholomew Close, both of which
are in this neighborhood. Here are still standing genuine Sixteenth
Century houses amid much darkness and dirt.

"Here in Bartholomew Close," stated Mrs. Pitt, "Benjamin Franklin
learned his trade of printing, and Washington Irving, John Milton, and
the painter Hogarth, all lived."

From Smithfield they hastily betook