el beyond
the Atlantic: it was kept by an Englishman from Bath. The inhabitants,
from three to four thousand in number, maintained four churches: one
episcopal, one presbyterian, and two Welsh.

This town is laid out on a very extensive scale. A small part of it only
is yet completed; but little doubt is entertained that ten years will
accomplish the whole. Fifteen years had not passed since there was here
no other trace of habitation than a solitary log-house, built for the
occasional reception of merchandise, on its way down the Mohawk. The
overflowing population of New England, fixing its exertions on a new and
fertile soil, has, within a few years, effected this change.

Independently of its soil, Utica has great advantages of situation; for
it is nearly at the point of junction betwixt the waters of the lakes
and of the Atlantic.

With Utica commences a succession of flourishing villages and
settlements, which renders this tract of country the astonishment of
travellers. That so large a portion of the soil should, in less than
twenty years, have been cleared, brought into cultivation, and have
acquired a numerous population, is, in itself, sufficiently surprising;
but the surprise is considerably increased, when we consider the
character of elegant opulence with which it every where smiles on the
eye. Each village teems, like a hive, with activity and employment. The
houses, taken in the mass, are on a large scale; for (except the few
primitive log-huts that still survive) there is scarcely one below the
appearance of an opulent London tradesman's country box. They are, in
general, of wood, painted white, with green doors and shutters; and with
porches, or verandas, in front.

The travellers passed through _Skaneactas_, a village, pleasantly
situated, at the head of the lake from which it is named. They then
proceeded to _Cayuga_, which, besides its agreeable site, is remarkable
for a bridge, nearly a mile in length, over the head of the Cayuga lake:
it is built on piles, and level. Betwixt Cayuga and Geneva is the
flourishing little village of _Waterloo_, formed since the battle so
named. _Geneva_ contains many elegant houses, beautifully placed, on the
rising shore, at the head of the Geneva lake.

From Geneva to _Canandaigua_, a tract of hill and vale extends, for
sixteen miles, and having (within that space) only two houses.
Canandaigua is a town of villas, built on the rising shore of the
_Canandaigua la