filled with reeds;
but it has been cleaned out and made more healthy for the surrounding
country.

On its northern shore is the town of Ismailia, having about two thousand
inhabitants, which has become a place of some importance. The railroad
from Cairo is extended to it by a branch, the main line following the
canal to Suez. It has a couple of hotels; and its principal square, on
which the best one is situated, has the name of Place Champollion,
showing that the French remember their learned men.

While the canal was in process of construction, Ismailia was the centre
of operations. It was handsomely laid out, not unlike the city of
Washington, which is one of the handsomest in the world; but, like the
new places in our great West, it was built in a hurry, under the
pressure of a drive of business, and the sanitary conditions were
neglected. The important fresh-water canal, which is near the railroad
all the way from the Nile, furnishes the only drinking-water of this
town and of Suez; but the sewers of the new town had no other outlet.

Of course the town was soon invaded by fever, which caused it to be
deserted; and it has never recovered its former prosperity, though not
wholly for this reason, for the completion of the canal destroyed its
business basis. Ismailia was the focal point of the great ceremonials at
the opening of the canal. The Empress Eugenie of France, the Emperor
Frederick of Germany, then crown-prince, and other noted persons, were
present; and the celebration is said to have cost the Khedive twenty
million dollars.

The town has improved somewhat of late; the viceroy's chateau, which had
become much dilapidated, has been restored, and portions of the desert,
irrigated from the canal, have been transformed into fine gardens.
Though the climate is agreeable and the air dry, it is not likely to
become a pleasure resort. A couple of small steamers run from this port
to Port Said, while the railroad connects it with Suez.

The steamer remained a couple of hours at the station, as did the Ophir;
and the commander obtained permission for the ladies to pay her a visit.
She is a magnificent specimen of naval architecture. Her saloon,
staterooms, drawing-room on the upper deck, were magnificent apartments,
most luxuriously furnished. Her appointments for second-class passengers
were extensive and very comfortable, far better than on many Atlantic
steamers.

The ubiquitous donkey, and especially the do