ncluded that the floor of the cavern may
have been formed by a sheet of lava, and that thus a natural basin was
created. At the bottom of the water, however, we found a thick mass of
ice. Even in this cool spot we discovered a jet of smoke or vapour
coming out from amidst a heap of stones not far from the entrance hole.
As we proceeded on our ascent, 11,600 feet above the sea, we came upon a
jet of steam, at a temperature of 100 degrees, coming out of crevices in
the rocks three inches in diameter, and known as the Narix of the Peak.
As it was condensed on the surrounding stones, it gave nourishment to a
small quantity of moss growing among them. At last we reached the base
of the cone, and had to climb up about 470 feet; at first over loose
pumice, but soon coming to some red lava crags, the ascent was easy
enough. Often we found the ground hot beneath our feet, while jets of
sulphurous vapour greeted our olfactory nerves in an unpleasant way.
Still on we climbed till we found ourselves on the very basin of the
culminating crater, but were almost driven back by the jets of steam and
sulphurous vapours which surrounded us.
"A mighty tall chimney to a huge fire burning down below somewhere,"
observed Lumsden. "I have no wish to go down and try and sweep it, to
cure it of smoking, however."
The interior of the crater was judged to be about 300 feet in diameter
and 70 deep. A remarkable feature was its extraordinary whiteness when
not covered with sulphur. The surrounding wall was so narrow at the top
that there was scarcely standing room for two persons. In many places,
however, it has given way, and crumbled down into the interior floor.
We walked about over the whole of the floor, searching for specimens of
sulphur, without the slightest fear of falling through the crust, and
slipping down the chimney, as Lumsden called it. Again we were on our
descent. I remember stopping to lunch in a grassy ravine, under the
shade of a superb laurel, by the side of a clear stream, amid a
profusion of green leaves and lovely wild-flowers, on some delicious
bananas, and other fruits, cold tea, and biscuits.
Never did I more enjoy an excursion; and then I had many a long talk
with Lumsden about old times, and especially about Alfred. He entered--
as I knew he would--warmly into my projects and when we got back to
Santa Cruz, procured me several valuable letters both to the Cape, the
Mauritius, Ceylon, and many other plac
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