are some particular places
more eminently sacred than others--as Benares, Allahabad and
Hurdwar--and to these pilgrims resort from great distances to perform
their ablutions and carry off water to be used in future ceremonies. The
Ganges water is also valued for its supposed medicinal properties, and
in the British courts of justice witnesses of the Brahmanical faith are
sworn upon it.

Having been ferried across the sacred flood, I journeyed onward in what
is termed a _shigram_--simply a large palanquin on wheels drawn by two
horses. As I reclined at length upon its cushion-covered bottom, I could
see that the country through which we passed was an immense plain, and a
clump of bamboos or an occasional palm alone hinted at an Oriental and
a tropical landscape. The trees were mostly banians, peepuls and
mangoes, and there were many large fields of rice and corn. The native
huts were made of bamboo reeds and mud, with straw-thatched roofs. A
view of their interiors was of course forbidden me on account of that
cursed system of caste which prevails from Peshawur to Rangoon and from
Cashmere and Thibet to Cape Cormorin and Ceylon. The road was
macadamized and shaded by rows of immense trees. The tricky and balky
horses (Mongol ponies) delayed us considerably, but it was very amusing
to see the methods employed to coax or coerce them. A groom held in his
hand a piece of bamboo about two feet in length, at the extremity of
which was fastened a strong looped horsehair cord, which was twisted
around the ear of a fractious beast, and a very little power applied a
few paces in advance generally removed all scruples as to its progress.
Horses who would not back into the shafts were assisted by a rope
secured round a hind leg, and one who would not start forward was
suddenly persuaded to change its mind through a similar combination of
rope and pressure applied to a fore leg. Often one native would take a
wheel, others would push from behind, some would lift one of the fore
feet of the obstinate brutes, a few would take their heads, and then,
after much alternate fondling and beating, off we would go at a very
break-neck speed for perhaps a mile, when the horses would quiet down
into an easy trot for the remainder of the stage.

About twelve o'clock on the first night a very provoking yet amusing
incident happened. I had some time previously covered myself with my
blankets and closed the sliding doors of the vehicle, as it was a