At last we were within two cables' length of the
beach, and even at this distance from it we were surrounded with the
breakers; the surf broke many feet high, and roared as it rushed up with
a velocity that was appalling, dashing the foam right to the door of
Bramble's cottage, which was forty or fifty yards higher than it
generally gained to even in very bad weather: we now lowered our sails,
stowed them in the boat, and got our oars to pass, backing against the
surf to prevent it from forcing us on the beach until the proper time.

It may not, perhaps, be known to many of my readers that there is a sort
of regularity even in the wild waves; that is, occasionally a
master-wave, as it is termed, from being of larger dimensions than its
predecessors, pours its whole volume on the beach; after which, by
watching your time, you will find that two waves will run into one
another, and, as it were, neutralise each other, so that, for a few
seconds, you have what they call a smooth; the safest plan of landing
then is to watch these two chances, either to run in on the master wave,
or to wait till the arrival of the smooth.

The latter is generally preferred, and with good reason, as unless a
boat can be forced in as fast as the master-wave runs in, you are worse
off than if you had landed at any other time.

The helm had been resigned to Bramble, who ordered me to go forward with
the boat's painter, a long coil of rope, and stand ready either to leap
out with it or throw it to those on shore, as might be most advisable;
the other men were sitting on the thwarts, their long oars in the
rowlocks, backing out as desired, and all ready to strain every nerve
when the order was given by Bramble to pull in.

The danger which we were about to incur was fully evident to the crowds
which were assembled on the beach; not only the pilots, who stood there
ready to assist us--some with ropes with iron hooks at the end of them--
others all ready to dart into the surf to hold on the boat, or, if
required, to link their arms together, so as to form a living chain
which the undertow could not drag away with it; higher up, women and
children, their clothes driven by the furious gale, with one hand
holding on their caps, and with the other supporting themselves by the
gunnels of the boats hauled up, the capstans, or perhaps an anchor with
its fluke buried in the shingle, were looking on with dismay and with
beating hearts, awaiting the resul