kfast in consequence was a fiasco, and very empty, very angry,
we faced the trail head-on to the sandstorm. Hour after hour it continued
with no sign of abatement, and with caps pulled down to shield the eyes and
handkerchiefs tied over nose and mouth we struggled on. The day seemed a
thousand years long; and when at last we did come to a halt, it was found
that we had overshot the watering-place by some miles! Back we trailed
wearily to the right place and there made the pleasing discovery that the
water had to be pumped up by hand, with the aid of the cumbersome old
"shadouf." We felt then that the gods had no more to offer us.

How many hours passed I do not know, but the stars had come out and the
storm had almost spent its violence, when we rode back sleepily to the
camping-ground. I may add that this was the only time I was really and
earnestly grateful for an army-biscuit; it was the sole article of food
untouched by the sand!

A day or two later our route took us on to the sea-shore and we knew then
that we were approaching the end of the journey; moreover, if further
indication were necessary, every halting-place now was populous with men,
all, like ourselves, marching towards El Arish, which is the only native
town in the whole desert. It was here that the ancient River of Egypt once
flowed until some violent upheaval of the earth's surface caused it
completely to disappear. Arab tradition has it that the river now flows
underground, which probably accounts for the fertility of the wadi, or
valley, and ultimately for the existence of the town.

Approaching the place we passed a very large grove of date-palms beyond
which the white roofs and walls shimmered in the setting sun. The Turks
were expected to make a great stand here, not only because of its strategic
position but also for its value as a port. When our aircraft reconnoitred
the ground about the middle of December, they discovered that for some
unknown reason the enemy had departed bag and baggage in the night, and the
cavalry, after a terrible march of nearly thirty miles, had nothing to do
but walk in and take possession. This was something of an anti-climax,
considering the preparations the Turks had made for putting up a stern
fight.

But as usual they retired with a sting in their tails. At Maghdaba, some
twenty miles down the wadi, they left a garrison in immensely strong
positions, with orders, apparently, to delay our advance at all costs.