excursion out in the Campagna.

They hired a one-horse vetturo in the piazza di Spagna, and packing in
their sketching materials and a basket well filled with luncheon and
bottles of red wine, started off, soon reaching the Saint Sebastian
gate. Further on, they passed the tomb of Cecilia Metella, and saw
streaming over the Campagna the Roman hunt-hounds, twenty couples,
making straight tails after a red fox, while a score of well-mounted
horsemen--here and there a red coat and white breeches--came riding
furiously after. Along the road-side were handsome open carriages,
filled with wit and beauty, talent and petticoats; and bright were the
blue eyes, and red the healthy cheeks of the English girls, as they saw
how well their countrymen and lovers led off the chase. Englishmen
_have_ good legs.

Continuing along the Appian way, either side of which was bordered by
tombs crumbling to decay; some of them covered with nature's lace, the
graceful ivy, others with only a pile of turf above them, others with
shattered column and mutilated statue at their base--the occupants of
the vetturo were silent. They saw before them the wide plain, shut in on
the horizon by high mountains, with snow-covered peaks and sides, while
they were living in the warmth of an American June morning; the breeze
that swept over them was gentle and exhilarating; in the long grass
waving by the way-side, they heard the shrill cries of the cicadas;
while the clouds, driven along the wide reach of heaven, assuming
fantastic forms, and in changing light and shadow mantling the distant
mountains, gave our trio a rare chance to study cloud-effects to great
advantage.

'I say, driver, what's your name?' asked Rocjean of the _vetturino_.

'Caesar, _padrone mio_,' answered the man.

'Are you descended from the celebrated Julius?' asked Caper, laughing.

'Yes, sir, my grandfather's name was Julius.'

''That every like is not the same, O Caesar!
The heart of Brutus yearns to think upon,''

soliloquized Caper; and as by this time they had reached a place where
both he and Rocjean thought a fine view of the ruined aqueduct might be
taken, they ordered the driver to stop, and taking out their sketching
materials, sent him back to Rome, telling him to come out for them about
four o'clock, when they would be ready to return.

While they were yet in the road, there came along a very large
countryman, mounted on a very small jackass; he was sitting sid