r Napoleon I. it was taken
down to be removed to Paris, but was replaced in 1815. The chapel is
handsome, and covered with good frescoes and splendid Roman mosaics.
The gardens are very delightful, abounding with shady bowers and
beautiful tropical plants. In one of the alleys is a tomb of the time
of Caesar, bearing this inscription:

JUL. CASAR
AUGUSTUS IMP.
TRIBUNITIA
POTESTATE
DCI.

The streets of Monaco are very narrow, and possess but few handsome
houses. The little shops are very neat and the place is exceedingly
clean. The principal church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, is very
ancient, and possesses two or three good pre-Raphaelite pictures. It
is attached to a recently-restored Benedictine abbey, the mitred abbot
of which does the duties of bishop. He is an exceedingly pleasant
old gentleman, very chatty and unassuming. The Jesuits have a superb
college and convent in Monaco, which is the residence of the Father
Provincial of Piedmont and California. This may appear a somewhat
extensive jurisdiction, but California was placed under the direction
of the provincial of Piedmont when it was first discovered and only
a missionary station. The port (_Portus Hercults_) is small, but well
situated: about eight hundred and fifty little vessels and steamers
enter it annually. Surrounding the port are some excellent bathing
establishments, and not far from it rises Monte Carlo with its
magnificent casino.

I cannot bid adieu to Monaco without relating a little anecdote in
which I was an involuntary actor. It chanced that one day in 1870
business took me to Monaco, and I arrived in that capital on the
anniversary of the birthday of the reigning princess. The little town
was decorated with flags and banners; a _Te Deum_ was sung in the
abbey church, and after high mass a review of the "army" took place
in front of the castle, on the Grande Place. Now I happened to be well
acquainted with the captain, who, the instant he saw me watching the
manoeuvres, took the opportunity to come over and invite me to dine
with the officers that evening, when they were to be regaled at a
banquet at the expense of the princess. I of course accepted, and was,
at about four in the afternoon, taken over the guard-house, which
is exquisitely clean and neatly furnished, and contains a handsome
chapel, a billiard-room and a well-supplied reading-room. Dinner was
served at five o'clock, and a very good one it was. The dining-room