are with reference to our religion.

[Illustration: FELLAH WOMAN.]

The adherents of Mohammed now number one hundred and thirty millions,
and the number is constantly growing. Many believe that this religion
gains so many adherents because it is sensual, and allows all kinds of
debauchery. But this supposition runs counter to the facts. It is true,
that Mohammed allowed a man to have four wives; but it must be
remembered that he limited the number to four, and that the number had
been unlimited before. The life of an orthodox Musselman is an unbroken
chain of self-denial and self-sacrifice, and, in this respect, we must
acknowledge that he is superior to us Christians. His chief article of
faith is expressed in this dogma: "There is no god but Allah, and
Mohammed is his prophet." The leading commandments bearing on the
practice of their religion are prayer, ablutions, alms-giving, fasting,
and a pilgrimage to Mecca. The use of intoxicating drinks is strictly
prohibited, hospitality is recommended, gambling and usury are not
allowed. Friday is the Mohammedan's day of rest. Since my first visit in
Egypt I have been very closely connected with many Mohammedans, several
of whom have been members of my own household, and it affords me great
pleasure to testify that, as far as my observations go, they have lived
faithfully according to the precepts of their religion. Nay, I am
convinced that in most cases they would renounce property, liberty, and
even life itself, rather than violate any of the cardinal precepts of
the Koran. But as to the Egyptian fellah, he has no comfort to
renounce, his whole life being made up of continual fasting and
abstinence from sheer necessity, so that it is comparatively easy for
him to be a good Mohammedan.

[Illustration: IRRIGATION MILL.]

Having engaged a berth for the voyage from London to India on the
steamer City of Canterbury, which I was to take about this time at the
west end of the Suez canal, I could not remain any longer in Egypt, but
took the Austrian steamer Apollo to Port Said, at the entrance to the
Suez canal. On September 25th, in the evening, I embarked on the City of
Canterbury where I made myself comfortable in a fine state-room which
had been reserved for me. It takes two days to pass through the Suez
canal, which runs through a great sandy plain that was formerly covered
by the waters of the Red Sea. Among the many memorable places which were
pointed out to us during t