ioners.

DWELLING-HOUSES

During the two centuries from the middle of the twelfth, aristocratic
dwellings in the capital underwent little change. Military
residences, however, developed some special features, though, in
general, their architecture was of the simplest character. They had
two enclosures, each surrounded by a boarded fence, and the whole was
encircled by a fosse crossed by outer and inner gates. There were
ranges for archery and there were watch-towers, but the dwelling
itself was small and plain. It consisted mainly of a hall, having a
dais with a lacquered chair for important visitors; an apartment for
women; a servants' room, and a kitchen, heat being obtained from a
hearth sunk in the floor. Austere simplicity was everywhere aimed at,
and it is related that great provincial chiefs did not think the
veranda too lowly for a sleeping-place. The use of the tatami was
greatly extended after the twelfth century. No longer laid on the
dais only, these mats were used to cover the whole of the floors, and
presently they were supplemented by cushions made of silk crepe
stuffed with cotton-wool. In the great majority of cases, roofs were
covered with boards. Only in the houses of magnates was recourse had
to tiles imported from China or slates of copper-bronze. In the
better class of house, the roof-boards were held in place by girders,
but humble folks used logs of timber, or stones, to prevent
wind-stripping, and these weights imparted an untidy, rude appearance
to the structure.

COSTUME

A notable feature of costume in this era was that the skirt of an
official's outer garment had to be long in proportion to his rank.
But military men did not observe this rule. It was followed only by
the comparatively effeminate Court nobles and civil officials, who
shaved their eyebrows, painted their cheeks, and blackened their
teeth, as women did. While the soldiers of the Kamakura period wore
their hair short and shaved the top of the head,--possibly for
greater comfort when they were accoutred in heavy helmets,--the Court
noble and the exquisite of the day wore their hair long and gathered
in a queue which was bound with paper.

As for women, long hair was counted a beauty, and when a lady of rank
left the house, her tresses were gathered in a box carried by an
attendant who walked behind; and when she seated herself, this
attendant's duty was to spread the hair symmetrically on the ground
like a skirt. Girls in