It is this flat thread, called the "baye" or "brin," which serves as
the material for making the cocoon, and which, when subsequently
unwound, is the filament used in making up the raw silk. While
spinning, the worm moves its head continually from right to left,
laying on the filament in a succession of lines somewhat resembling
the shape of the figure eight. As the worm continues the work of
making its cocoon, the filament expressed from its body in the manner
described is deposited in nearly even layers all over the interior of
the wall of the cocoon, which gradually becomes thicker and harder.
The filament issuing from the spinnarets is immediately attached to
that already in place by means of the gum which has been mentioned.
When the store of silk in the body of the worm is exhausted, the
cocoon is finished, and the worm, once more shedding its skin, becomes
dormant and begins to undergo its change into a moth. It is at this
point that its labors in the production of silk terminate and those of
man begin. A certain number of the cocoons are set aside for
reproduction.
In southern countries the reproduction of silkworms is a vast industry
to which great attention is given, and which receives important and
regular aid from the government. It is, however, quite distinct from
the manufacturing industry with which at present we have to do. The
cocoons to be used for reeling, i.e., all but those which are
reserved for reproduction, are in the first place "stifled," that is
to say, they are put into a steam or other oven and the insect is
killed. The cocoons are then ready for reeling, but those not to be
used at once are allowed to dry. In this process, which is carried on
for about two months, they lose about two-thirds of their weight,
representing the water in the fresh chrysalis. The standard and dried
cocoons form the raw material of the reeling mills, or filatures, as
they are called on the Continent. Each filature endeavors as far as
possible to collect, stifle, and dry the cocoons in its own
neighborhood; but dried cocoons, nevertheless, give rise to an
important commerce, having its center at Marseilles. The appearance of
the cocoon is probably well known to most of our readers. Industrially
considered, the cocoon may be divided into three parts: (1) The floss,
which consists of the remains of the filaments used for supporting the
cocoon on the twigs of the brush among which it was built and the
outside layer
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