of the West for another load of
passengers.

There was mire at Machuca, and steaming heat; but the path along the
river-bank was shaded by wondrous trees, and we were overwhelmed with
the offer of all the edible luxuries of the season at the most alarming
prices. There was no coin in circulation smaller than a dime. Everything
salable was worth a dime, or two or three, to the seller. It didn't seem
to make much difference what price was asked by the merchant: he got it,
or you went without refreshments. It was evident there was no market
between meals at Machuca Rapids, and steamer traffic enlivened it but
twice in the month.

What oranges were there!--such as one seldom sees outside the tropics:
great globes of delicious dew shut in a pulpy crust half an inch in
thickness, of a pale green tinge, and oozing syrup and an oily spray
when they are broken. Bananas, mangoes, guavas, sugar-cane,--on these we
fed; and drank the cream of the young cocoanut, goat's milk, and the
juices of various luscious fruits served in carven gourds,--delectable
indeed, but the nature of which was past our speculation. It was enough
to eat and to drink and to wallow a muddy mile for the very joy of it,
after having been toeing the mark on a ship's deck for a dozen days or
less, and feeding on ship's fodder.

Our second transport was scarcely an improvement on the first. Again we
threaded the river, which seemed to grow broader and deeper as we drew
near its fountain-head, Lake Nicaragua. Upon a height above the river
stood a military post, El Castillo, much fallen to decay. Here were
other rapids, and here we were transferred to a lake boat on which we
were to conclude our voyage. Those stern-wheel scows could never weather
the lake waters.

We had passed a night on the river boat,--a night of picturesque
horrors. The cabin was impossible: nobody braved its heat. The deck was
littered with luggage and crowded with recumbent forms. A few fortunate
voyagers--men of wisdom and experience--were provided with comfortable
hammocks; and while most of us were squirming beneath them, they swung
in mid-air, under a breadth of mosquito netting, slumbering sonorously
and obviously oblivious of all our woes.

If I forget not, I cared not to sleep. We were very soon to leave the
river and enter the lake. From the boughs of overarching trees swept
beards of dark gray moss some yards in length, that waved to and fro in
the gathering twilight like folds