hour. During this day I noticed a small
screw tug bearing a foresail coming after us and trying hard to reach
us. It proved to be a press steamer having on board the correspondent of
an English paper, an engineer and a native pilot. They ran short of coal
and wanted a tow, and all the coal they had left when reaching us, a man
could have put in his vest pocket. We beached this night on the west
side close to a temple, cut, as it appeared to me into the solid rock.
Being called to receive stores and cholera belts for the men I was
prevented from joining an exploring party, that set out, and was told,
when the boys came back, that I had missed something worth seeing. I
learnt afterwards that this place was Abu-Simbel, where there are two
temples cut out of the rock which are said to be the oldest specimens of
architecture in the world. The boys said they had seen stone figures of
men with toes three feet long and I dare say they were not far out, as I
learnt there are four seated figures in front of the largest temple
supposed to represent Rameses the Great, which are sixty five feet in
height. I was sorry that I had to stay behind to look after the stores.
Talking about cholera belts, everybody engaged in the British service in
Egypt had to wear these belts, soldiers and voyageurs were supplied with
them and required to wear them. They are strips of flannel twelve or
fifteen inches wide, and I was told by soldiers who had served in Egypt
some time, that they are very effective in preventing cholera and
dysentery.

[Illustration: BOAT FOR THE NILE EXPEDITION UNDER SAIL.]

[Illustration: BOAT FOR THE NILE EXPEDITION SHOWING AWNING.]

Next day, Sunday the 26th at 5 p. m. we arrived at Wady Halfa. The
weather was still the same as ever since we landed at Alexandria, not a
cloud, not uncomfortably warm, but warm enough. A steam tug came out
from Wady Halfa and brought orders for us to proceed as far as the river
was navigable for the steamer. This brought us about four miles above
Wady Halfa where the tow was disbanded. The boats then proceeded another
mile and we camped. During this mile we had the first opportunity to
work the boats, (still all light) and that evening the opinions about
them varied greatly.

No sooner were our tents pitched than Lord Wolseley arrived. He shook
hands with some, exchanged a few words with our commander, Colonel
Denison, and was off again. We found here about a hundred whalers
waiting for