tempt a French captain to the Atlantic shore of Costa Rica? And the
expedition was as uninviting as well could be. There were no towns nor
even villages--but it must be borne in mind that I speak of twenty years
ago. At that time all the white and coloured population was settled on the
tableland, excepting a few individuals or families who yearly wandered
downwards to squat along the slope. Upon the other hand there were Indian
tribes--Talamancas to the southward, who admitted some vague allegiance to
the Republic on condition that white men did not enter their territory;
and Guatusos or Pranzos to the northward, utter savages. It was their
country, however, to which the wandering folks mentioned betook
themselves, and thither Oversluys must go; for the track they had cut
through the forest was the only one connecting the tableland with the
Atlantic coast.

I have travelled that 'road' myself in the days when peril and discomfort
were welcome for the promise of adventure; but had we known what lay
before us when bidding a joyous adieu to the capital, we should have
meekly returned to the Pacific harbour by coach. Oversluys was a man of
business, and to men of business adventure commonly means embarrassment
and loss of time, if no worse. Varied experiences, all unpleasant, told
him that to seek orchids in a country like that must be a thankless
enterprise, attended by annoyance, privation, and even danger. But he had
undertaken the work. It must be done.

As cheerfully then as such untoward circumstances permitted, Oversluys set
forth from San Jose, and in due time reached the Disengagno. This is a
blockhouse raised by some charitable person on the edge of the tableland;
a very few yards beyond, the path dips suddenly on its course to the
Serebpiqui river, 6000 feet below. The spot is bitterly cold at night, as
I can testify, or seems so, and for this reason the hut was built, as a
shelter for travellers. But they, too lazy to seek wood in the forest at
arm's length, promptly demolished the walls and burned them. Only the roof
remained in a few months, with the posts that upheld it.

A group of ill-looking peons occupied this shed when Oversluys arrived.
They began to pick a quarrel forthwith; in short, he heartily wished
himself elsewhere. It was not yet dusk. Drawing the guide apart Oversluys
questioned him, and learned that there was one single habitation within
reach. The report of it was not promising, but he did