e had with her for gold and rare jewels. She married her
half-brother, Thothmes II., and made it very hot for him during their
reign. She wore the "pants" in theory as well as in practice and was
the undisputed leader of the "four hundred" in Cairo, being the
headliner in the Levantine book of _Who's Who?_ Her greatest work was
the erection of the vast temple of Der-al-Bahari, part of it ornamented
in fine gold. Hattie smote her pocketbook for the count on this
structure--like as not she had to mortgage her Luxor villa to meet the
final pay-roll. Den Mut was her architect and he grew rich as the
buildings increased. He owned a centipede barge on the Nile, which was
the badge of big money in those days.

[Illustration: RAM IN THE LIME-LIGHT, WITH THE INEVITABLE GOATEE. THE
ONLY WAY HE COULD TRIM IT WAS WITH A BLAST OF DYNAMITE]

Gooley wasn't always a treasure; he frequently irritated me by
designating certain things as "cool-o-sall'." I said to him one day:

"Gooley, when I was a boy they pronounced that word _colossal_."

"Mr. Bayne, I don't care what they called it when you were a boy; I
call it cool-o-sall', and that goes on the Nile. What's been good
enough for King Edward you will have to put up with."

The crowd laughed and I subsided--for awhile. Afterward I caught
Gooley on his dates, but he again called me down:

"Mr. Bayne, if you think you can do this thing better than I can, why,
get up here and try it!"

And so we rattled along from one gibe to another till we mounted our
donkeys, rode out from the temples and started for the steamer. As we
came away we passed Mr. Morgan, who had chosen the cool of the evening
for his visit, even though the light was not so good.

There is an art in horse-racing known as the "hand ride," perfected by
Todd Sloan--_i.e._, swinging the hands from side to side and thus
rolling the bit to excite the animal. I tried it on my donkey and as
he had never experienced it before, it excited him so much that he
started out with a rush that threw me over his head before we had gone
ten yards. I was somewhat crestfallen, but remounted, and took "an
humbler flight" for the rest of the journey.

[Illustration: OUR OWN NILE DONKEY, "BALLY-HOO-BEY." KNEW HIS BUSINESS
LIKE A BOOK, BUT OBJECTED TO THE TOD SLOAN RIDE (SPOKEN OF IN THE
TEXT)--A WILD WEST EFFORT IN THE FAR EAST. ALI BABA, JR., IN THE
SADDLE]

Next day we started down the Nile, stopping at many places, but