r tongues in their cheeks.

[Illustration: Lazaroni And Macaroni.]

Dick could not eat, but the more philosophical Buttons made an
extremely hearty meal, and pronounced the macaroni delicious.

On landing in a city which swarmed with beggars the first thought of
our tourists was, How the mischief do they all live? There are sixty
thousand lazaroni in this gay city. The average amount of clothing to
each man is about one-third of a pair of trowsers and a woolen cap.
But after spending a day or two the question changed its form, and
became, How the mischief can they all help living? Food may be picked
up in the streets. Handfuls of oranges and other fruits sell for next
to nothing; strings of figs cost about a cent.

The consequence is that these sixty thousand people, fellow-creatures
of ours, who are known as the lazaroni of Naples, whom we half pity
and altogether despise, and look upon as lowest members of the
Caucasian race, are not altogether very miserable. On the contrary,
taken as a whole, they form the oiliest, fattest, drollest, noisiest,
sleekest, dirtiest, ignorantest, prejudicedest, narrow-mindedest,
shirtlessest, clotheslessest, idlest, carelessest, jolliest,
absurdest, rascaliest--but still, all that, perhaps--taken all in
all--the happiest community on the face of the earth.

[Illustration: Yankee Doodle.]

CHAPTER VII.

DOLORES.--AN ITALIAN MAID LEARNS ENGLISH.--A ROMANTIC ADVENTURE.--A
MASQUERADE, AND WHAT BEFELL THE SENATOR.--A CHARMING DOMINO.--A
MOONLIGHT WALK, AND AN ASTOUNDING DISCOVERY.

The lodgings of Buttons and Dick were in a remarkably central part of
Naples. The landlord was a true Neapolitan; a handsome, gay, witty,
noisy, lively, rascally, covetous, ungrateful, deceitful, cunning,
good-hearted old scoundrel, who took advantage of his guests in a
thousand ways, and never spoke to them without trying to humbug them.
He was the father of a pretty daughter who had all her parent's nature
somewhat toned down, and expanded in a feminine mould.

Buttons had a chivalrous soul, and so had Dick; the vivacity of this
very friendly young lady was like an oasis in the wilderness of
travel. In the evening they loved to sit in the sunshine of her smile.
She was singularly unconventional, this landlord's daughter, and made
many informal calls on her two lodgers in their apartment.

An innocent, sprightly little maid--name Dolores--age seventeen--
complexion olive--hair jet blac