the disposition of that native veil of unsurpassable
beauty which adorns the head of woman: now, all locks were braided low
at the back of the head, almost lying upon the neck; now they surmounted
the crown and rose in stories higher and higher; now they sprang into a
pair of wings from either side of the temples; now they were clustered
in a tuft of disorderly curls above the brow; now smoothed and
bandolined close to the face and knotted with an air of quiet simplicity
behind the ears.

Whichever of these modes the Parisian queen of "_chiffons_" rendered
graceful in her own person, every fair one, with the slightest
aspiration to _style_, strengthened her claims to be thought fashionable
by scrupulously assuming. What wonder that Mademoiselle Melanie, prime
minister to the absolute sovereign, could scarcely receive the crowd of
clients that thronged her doors?

She hired a spacious mansion, near the capitol, and furnished it with
consummate taste. She combined the vocation of mantua-maker with that of
milliner, and supplied all the materials she employed from an assortment
of her own selection. This was one secret of her astonishing success,
for it gave her control over the entire apparel of her customers.
Regarding herself as responsible for the _tout ensemble_ of each toilet
that issued from her hands, and her reputation as at stake if any
defective touch marred the general result of her adorning, she exerted a
thoroughly despotic sway over those whom she undertook to dress, and
refused, in the most positive, yet most courteous manner, to allow them
to follow the dictates of their own faulty fancies. As a skilful artist
examines a picture in the best light, that all its beauties may be
revealed, she placed each one of her subjects in the most favorable
aspect, studied her closely, searched out every fine point which might
be heightened, and pondered over every defect which might be concealed.
She had the rare gift of knowing how to embellish nature, how to bring
forth all the capacities of a face and form, and how to modify the
fashion of the day to the requirements of the wearer, instead of
slavishly following an arbitrary mode, and thereby sacrificing all
individuality of beauty. Dress became high art in her hands. Wondrously
harmonious were the effects produced. Blondes looked softer and purer
than ever before, without becoming insipid; brunettes grew more
_piquante_ and brilliant; nondescripts gained force and