the sledge all in a row, and a
rein is fastened to the head of one; when _he_ turns all the rest turn
with him. Usually they trot, but they _can_ gallop very fast, even down
hill. When they are out of breath the driver lets them stop, and then the
pretty creatures lie down, and cool their mouths with the snow lying on
the ground.

Men ride upon reindeer; not upon their _backs_, but on their _necks_; for
their backs are weak, while their necks are strong. Riders do not mount
reindeer as they do horses,--by resting on their backs, and then making a
spring, for that would hurt the poor animals; they lean on a long staff,
and by its help, spring on the deer's neck. But it is not easy, when
seated, to keep on; _you_ would certainly fall off, for all strangers do,
when they try to ride for the _first_ time. The Ostyak knows how to keep
his balance, by waving his long staff in the air, while the deer trots
briskly along. But these reindeer have some curious fancies; they will
not eat any food but such as they pluck themselves from the ground. It
would be of no use at the end of a long journey, to put them in a
stable;--they would not eat; they must be let loose to find their own
nourishment, which is a kind of moss that grows wild among the hills.

The reindeer, after he is dead, is of as much use to the Ostyak, as when
he was alive; for his skin is his master's clothing. Both men and women
dress alike, in a suit that covers them from head to foot; the seams are
well joined with thread, made of reindeer sinews, and the cold is kept
well out. The Ostyak lets no part of his body be uncovered but just his
face, and that would freeze, if he were not to rub it often with his
hands, covered over with hairy reindeer gloves. The women cover their
faces with thick veils. The Ostyak wears a great-coat made of the skin of
a white deer; this gives him the appearance of a great white bear. He
carries in his hand a bow taller than himself. His arrows are very long,
and made of wood, pointed with iron. With these he shoots the wild
animals. He is very glad when he can shoot a sable; because the Russian
emperor requires every Ostyak to give him yearly, as a tax, the skins of
two sables. The fur of the sable is very valuable, and is made into muffs
and tippets, and pelisses for the Russian nobles.

But without his snow-shoes, the Ostyak would not be able to pursue the
wild animals, for he would sink in the snow. These shoes are made of long