f generous mind and heart, who
duly suffered arrest and imprisonment when the grand-duke was restored
by the Austrians. He was sentenced to fifteen years' prison with hard
labor, but later his sentence was commuted to exile. He lived to return
and take part in the Italian unification in 1860, and in 1866 he led the
movement against making peace with Austria unless all her
Italian-speaking provinces were ceded to Italy. He died in 1873, and is
remembered in Leghorn by a monument very ineffective as a whole, but
singularly interesting in certain details.

I have omitted from this catalogue of events many of peaceful interest,
such as visits from popes, princes, and poets, and I am not sure I have
got in all the plagues and earthquakes. Perhaps I have the more
willingly suppressed a few war-like facts, in the interest of the
superstition I had cherished that Leghorn was without a history, or that
it had no more history than, most American cities of equal date with its
commercial importance, which began with the wise hospitality of the
Medici to merchants of all races and nations, religions and races,
settled there, and especially to the Spanish Jews who came in great
numbers to the city that it was a common saying that you had as well
strike the duke as strike a Jew in Leghorn. Greeks, Turks, Armenians
were protected equally with English and Dutch, and infidel and heretic
were alike free in their worship. It was the great prison of the
galley-slaves, who were chiefly the pirates and corsairs taken on the
high seas by the duke's ships. These captives not only served as models
for the Moors at the base of his monument, but they must have been very
useful in the different public works which he and his successors carried
out. Now they and their like are gone, and though the Greeks, the
Armenians, the English, and the Scotch still have their churches, I do
not suppose there is a mosque in all Leghorn.

[Illustration: 46 THE CANAL AT LEGHORN]

I do not speak very confidently, because my researches in that sort were
not exhaustive. I indeed visited the cathedral, not wholly because Inigo
Jones had something to do in planning it, but because I had formed the
habit of visiting churches in Rome, and I mechanically went into one
wherever I saw it. Generally speaking, I think that they were rather
bare in painting or sculpture, but they were such churches as in America
one would go a long way to see and think one's self well reward