--when anemones, cyclamens, crocuses, and Roman
hyacinths, as prescient of the coming heat, lose no time in quickening,
and burst out suddenly in myriads to cover the plain with their
loveliness; while the towering _ferula_ conceals the sandy rock whence
it springs, with its delicate tracery yet unspecked by the solar rays;
and the stately teazle, bending under the clutch of goldfinch and
linnet, or recoiling as they spurn it, in quest of their
butterfly-breakfast, has still some sap in its veins. Early on one of
the most exhilarating mornings of this truly delicious season, (alas,
how brief in its continuance!) we are awaked by unusual sounds in the
street. These proceeded from the young Romans vociferating to their
friends to bestir themselves to procure places at the steeple-chase
programmed for this 14th of March. An hour before Aurora had opened her
_porte cochere_ to Phoebus, and those sleek piebald coursers whose
portraits are to be seen in the Ludovisi and Ruspigliosi palaces, all
the vetturini and cabmen of Rome had already opened _theirs_; and while
some were adjusting misfitting harness to every specimen of horseflesh
that could be procured for the occasion, others were trundling out from
their black recesses in stable and coach-house, every mis-shapen vehicle
that permitted of being fastened to their backs, in order to proceed out
of the Porta Salara betimes. By six all Rome was awake, and by seven, in
motion towards the race-course. On that memorable morning artists
forewent their studies, the Sapienza its wisdom, the Roman college its
theology; shopkeepers kept their windows closed; Italian masters
barouched with their pupils, mouthed Ariosto, and seemed highly
delighted; while the professions of law and physic sent as many of their
members as public safety could spare. In short, it had been long ago
settled that all the world would be present; and all the world was
present, sure enough, and long before the time. It was a lively and a
pleasing spectacle, to which novelty lent another charm, when, about
two miles beyond the Salara gate, we looked from our double-lined
procession of Broughams and Britskas, fore and aft, and saw, for miles,
scattered over that usually deserted plain, groups of peasants in the
gay costumes of the adjacent villages, now animating it in every
direction; some emerging from under the arches of aqueducts, or the
screen of ruined columbaria, alternately lost to sight and again rising