rimmings this autumn. These will be used even upon velvet and beaver
bonnets.

There is a very strong feeling in many quarters in favour of restoring
the "princess" cut of dress to favour. In a letter from a lady, it is
very wisely said, in writing to a contemporary, "For active exercise, a
dress ought to be cut all in one--'princess,' as the milliners call
it--and so arranged in the skirt that there is no drapery which will
catch in things, come unstitched, and look untidy; everything wants to
be taut and trim, like tailor's work. But even the ladies' tailors will
insist upon making a skirt and little jacket-bodice, instead of a dress
in one piece. It is almost impossible to use the arms freely--to go out
in a sailing-boat, for instance, and help in its management--or, in
fact, to raise the arms high, without causing a hiatus between the two
parts of the garment at the sides of the waist. I have noticed this
happen so often, even with smart tailor-made gowns, the wearer being
generally blissfully unconscious of the accident, that I feel bound to
draw attention to it.

"It was curious to note the awful revelations made recently by a storm
of wind on an elevated promenade by the sea. Every steel stood out in
bold relief even under the most _bouffante_ drapery. Upper-skirts broke
away from the under, and displayed the sorry fact that the latter were
only shams, formed of lining-calico, with patches of good material put
in here and there, where the over-garment was cut open. One neat
tailor-gown revealed the cotton back to the pretty waistcoat, a pretence
which is carried out in every suit of clothes made for men, but which
seemed an aggravated offence to art in a well-dressed woman. It was
comforting to turn from such sartorial mistakes to a group of young
girls sensibly clad in simple gowns, guiltless of pretence, of steels,
or _tournures_. Gathered bodices and full plain skirts, confined by
broad sashes, combined the elements of grace and utility, and exhibited
no foolish attempt to distort and pervert nature."

I have given the full extract, as it contains much matter for thought
for my readers, both young and middle-aged. I suppose everyone read with
interest the celebration of the centenary of M. Chevreul, the great
French chemist, who has been for years a great student of colour, and to
whom we owe many alterations, inventions, and suggestions in dyes and
colours. Trade has been assisted and developed by his resea