surface. Broken as it may seem, it closes at
once on the application of a quick heat.

The best _broiler_ is by all means a light wire one, which can be held in
the hand and turned quickly. The fire should be quick and hot. Place the
steak in the centre of the broiler, and hold it close to the coals an
instant on each side, letting both sear over before broiling really
begins.

Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch thick, ten minutes
will be sufficient to cook it rare, and fifteen will make it well done.
Turn almost constantly, and, when done, serve at once on a _hot dish_.
Never salt broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up a
tablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, turning the
steak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper lightly, and, if necessary to
have it stand at all, cover with an earthen dish, or stand in the open
oven. _Chops_ and _cutlets_ are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry a
meat that it is better fried.

Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently done, the next best
method is to heat a frying-pan very hot; grease it with a bit of fat cut
from the steak, just enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost as
constantly as in broiling, and season in the same way when done. Venison
steaks are treated in the same manner.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use drippings instead,
if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, which are best cut from the leg,
be made as nearly of a size as possible; dip them in well-beaten egg and
then in cracker-crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the veal is
tough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen minutes before
frying.

PORK STEAK.

Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and sprinkled with pepper
and salt and a little powdered sage. Have the pan hot; put in a
tablespoonful of dripping, and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes,
turning often. A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also,
by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the pan, and
stirring it till a bright brown, then adding a large cup of boiling water,
and salt to taste; a saltspoonful being sufficient, with half the amount
of pepper.

Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in precisely the
same way, using a teaspoonful of powdered sage to two pounds of liver.

FRIED HAM OR BACON.

Cut the ham in very thin slices. Take off the rind,