to
console them, by telling them that when one cannot direct events, one
bears them with resignation. Our two conductors acknowledged our
doctrine to be very fine in theory, but the practice was not to their
taste. However, they were obliged to admit afterwards, that this delay
was very opportune, as, during the two days that we remained at Ghiamda,
the sky was so overcast, the north wind blew with so much violence, and
the snow fell so abundantly, that, in the opinion of the Ghiamdians, we
could not have proceeded with safety in such boisterous weather. In
fact, judging from what passed in the valley, it was easy to imagine that
a frightful storm must have laid waste the mountains.

The day after our arrival at Ghiamda we received a visit from the two
Chinese officers stationed in the town. The one bore the title of
Pa-Tsoung, and the other that of Wei-Wei. The Pa-Tsoung was a fine man,
strongly made, with a sounding voice and quick movement. A large scar
across his face, and great black mustachios, contributed not a little to
give him a highly military look. For four years he had served in the
Kachkhar as a private soldier, and had returned thence with the title of
Pa-Tsoung and the decoration of the peacock's feather. The Wei-Wei, a
young man two-and-twenty, was also a well-built person, but his languid
and effeminate mien presented a singular contrast with the manly bearing
of his colleague. His face was pale, flabby, and extremely delicate, his
eyes were constantly humid and languishing. We asked him if he was ill.
"No," replied he, with a scarcely audible voice; "my health is
excellent;" and, as he spoke, his cheeks were slightly tinged with an
angry redness. We saw that we had been guilty of an indiscretion, and we
turned to another subject of conversation. This poor young man was an
insane smoker of opium. When they were gone, Ly-Kouo-Ngan said, "The
Pa-Tsoung is a man born under a very favourable star; he will ascend
rapidly the grades of the military mandarinship; but the Wei-Wei was born
under a cloud. Since he has become addicted to the European smoke,
heaven has forsaken him. Before a year has elapsed he will have said
good-by to the world."

The torrents of rain which fell almost without interruption during our
stay at Ghiamda, prevented us from visiting in detail this populous and
commercial town. You find a great number of Pebouns or Indians of
Boutan, who monopolise here, as at Lha-Ssa