e Louvre, where he
lay for thirteen years, with ample leisure to meditate on the fate of
rebellious feudatories. "Never after," say the chroniclers, "was war
waged on King Philip, but he lived in peace."

[Footnote 48: In the ardour of the fight the king found himself
surrounded by the enemy's footmen, was unhorsed, and while they were
vainly seeking for a vulnerable spot in his armour some French knights
had time to rescue him.]

Two vast undertakings make the name of Philip Augustus memorable in
Paris--the beginning of the paving of the city and the building of its
girdle of walls and towers. One day as the king stood at the window of
his palace, where he was wont to distract himself from the cares of
state by watching the Seine flow by, some carts rattled along the
muddy road beneath the window and stirred so foul and overpowering an
odour that the king almost fell sick. Next day the provost and the
sheriffs and chief citizens were summoned before him and ordered to
set about paving the city with stone. The work was not however
completed until the reign of Charles V., a century and a half later.
It was done well and lasted till the sixteenth century, when it was
replaced by the miserable cobbles, known as the pavement of the
League. Whether the city grew much sweeter is doubtful; certainly
Paris in the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries was as
evil-smelling as ever. Montaigne, in the second half of the sixteenth
century, complains that the acrid smell of the mud of Paris weakened
the affection he bore to that fair city, and Howell writes in 1620,
"the city is always dirty, and by perpetual motion the mud is beaten
into a thick, black and unctuous oil that sticks so that no art can
wash it off, and besides the indelible stain it leaves, gives so
strong a scent that it may be smelt many miles off, if the wind be in
one's face as one comes from the fresh air of the country." Horace
Walpole in the eighteenth century, called Paris "the beastliest town
in the universe."

[Illustration: WALL OF PHILIPPE AUGUSTE, COUR DE ROUEN.]

The great fortified wall of Philip Augustus began at the north-west
water-tower, which stood just above the present Pont des Arts, and
passed through the quadrangle of the Louvre, where a line on the
paving marks its course, to the Porte St. Honore, near the Oratoire.
It continued northwards within the line of the present Rue Jean
Jacques Rousseau and by the Rue du Jour to the Port