nd,
indeed, whereas the soldiers and Lamas treated me with brutality and took
every mean advantage that they could, this officer was alone in showing
some deference to me and some appreciation of my behaviour. He made room
by his side and signed that I might sit there.

[Illustration: SNUFF-BOX]

"I am a soldier," said he in a dignified tone, "not a Lama. I have come
from Lhassa with my men to arrest you, and you are now our prisoner. But
you have shown no fear, and I respect you."

So saying, he inclined his head and laid his forehead touching mine, and
pulled out his tongue. Then he made a gesture signifying that, though he
wished to, he could not then say more, owing to the presence of the
soldiers.

Later on we entered into a most amicable conversation, in the course of
which he said that he was a Rupun (a grade below that of general). I
tried to explain to him all about English soldiers and weapons, and he
displayed the keenest interest in all I told him. In return he gave me
interesting information about the soldiers of Tibet. Every man in Tibet
is considered a soldier in time of war or when required to do duty, but
for the regular army all lads that are strong and healthy can enlist from
the age of seventeen, those deformed or weakly being rejected as unfit
for service. Good horsemanship is one of the qualities most appreciated
in the Tibetan soldier, and, after that, unbounded obedience. The Rupun
swore by the Tibetan matchlocks, which he believed to be the most
serviceable weapons on earth; for, according to him, as long as you had
powder enough, you could use anything as a missile. Pebbles, earth, or
nails did as good work as any lead bullet.

[Illustration: FLINT-AND-STEEL POUCH]

He told me that large quantities of these weapons were manufactured at
Lhassa and Sigatz (Shigatze), and he stated that the majority of Tibetan
men outside the towns possess one. Gunpowder was also made with saltpetre
and sulphur found in the country.

The Rupun, seeing how quick I was at picking up words, took a special
delight in teaching me, as one would a child, the names of the several
grades in the Tibetan army. The _Tchu-pun_[29] was the lowest grade, and
only had ten men under him; then came the _Kiatsamba-pun_ or
_Kia-pun_,[30] or officer in command of one hundred soldiers; and the
_Tung-pun_,[31] or head of one thousand. These officers, however, are
seldom allowed the full complement of soldiers according to their