's shop--nougat,
_fougasso_, a great _poumpo_, compotes, candied-fruits, and a whole
nightmare herd of rich cakes on which persons not blessed with the most
powerful organs of digestion surely would go galloping to the country of
dreadful dreams. This was prodigality; but even the bare requirements of
the case were lavish, the traditional law of the Great Supper ordaining
that not fewer than seven different sweets shall be served. Mise
Fougueiroun, however, was not the person to stand upon the parsimonious
letter of any eating law. Here had been her opportunity, and she had run
amuck through all the range of sugary things!

Of the dessert of nuts and fruit the notable features were grapes and
winter-melons. Possibly because they are an obscure survival of some
Bacchic custom connected with the celebration of the winter solstice,
the grapes are considered a very necessary part of the Great Supper; but
as Provencal grapes are of a soft substance and soon wither, though a
world of care is taken to preserve a few bunches until Christmas, this
part of the feast usually is a ceremony rather than a satisfaction.

But our melons were a pure vegetable delight. These winter-melons are a
species of cantaloupe, but of a firmer texture than the summer fruit,
sowed late in the season and laid away a little green on beds of straw
in cool and dark and well-aired rooms. Thus cared for, they will keep
until the end of January; but they are preserved especially for
Christmas, and few survive beyond that day. They are of American origin:
as I discovered quite by chance while reading a collection of delightful
letters, but lately published, written near three hundred years ago by
Dr. Antoine Novel; that Provencal naturalist, whom Buffon quotes under
the wrongly Latinized name of Natalis, sometime physician to the Duke of
Medina-Sidonia in Spain. He was a rolling stone of a naturalist, the
excellent Novel; but his gatherings were many, and most of them were for
the benefit of his beloved Provence. It was from "Sainct Luquar," under
date of March 24, 1625, that he wrote to his friend Peiresc in Aix: "I
send you by the Patron Armand a little box in which are two specimens of
ore ... and ten sorts of seeds of the most exquisite fruits and flowers
of the Indies; and to fill the chinks I have put in the seeds of
winter-melons." And in a letter of June 12th, following, he wrote: "I
hope that you have received my letter sent by the Patron Armand of