s to run the rough water at
the near end of the island, tie up there, unload, transfer the pieces by
hand-car over the island to its other end, let the empty scows down
carefully through the channel by ropes, and reload at the other end.

Between the bank where we are and the island ahead is a stretch of
roaring water dangerous enough looking. We have learned ere this,
however, to sit tight and watch for events. The careless Indians have
straightened into keen-eyed, responsible voyageurs, each muscle taut,
every sense alert. Our boat goes first, one half-breed with huge pole
braces himself as bowsman, the most able man takes the stern sweep, the
others stand at the oars. Fifteen minutes of good head-work brings us to
the island and we step out with relief. The other boats follow and
anchor, and we have opportunity at close range to inspect these worst
rapids of the Athabascan chain. The current on the west side of the
dividing island looks innocent, and we understand how the greenhorn
would choose this passage-way, to his destruction.

[Illustration: Portage at Grand Rapids Island]

The transportation of pieces occupied four days, every moment of which
we enjoyed. Grand Rapids Island is prodigal in wild flowers,--vetches,
woodbine, purple and pink columbines, wild roses, several varieties of
false Solomon's seal, our persisting friend dwarf cornel, and,
treasure-trove, our first anemone,--that beautiful buttercup springing
from its silvered sheath--

"And where a tear has dropt a wind-flower blows."

I measured a grass-stem and found it two feet three inches high, rising
amid last year's prostrate growth.

[Illustration: Our transport at Grand Rapids Island]

At Grand Rapids Island we overtook two scows which had preceded us from
The Landing and whose crews had waited here to assist in the transport.
It gave us opportunity to observe these sixty representative half-breeds
from Lac la Biche. Tall, strong, happy-go-lucky, with no sordid strain
in their make-up, they are fellows that one cannot help feeling sympathy
for. A natural link between the East and the West, the South of Canada
and the North, they have bridged over the animosity and awkwardness
with which the Red race elsewhere has approached the White.

[Illustration: Cheese-shaped Nodules, Grand Rapids Island]

In a glade our camp is made, inside our tents we arrange the
mosquito-bar (a tent within a tent looking something like a good-sized
dog-kennel),