a big whip, and scrambles furiously away from a
two-wheeler whirling along a man able to pay a 10-cent fare.

In other days when one passed this bridge he faced the botanical
gardens, which had a world-wide reputation, an attraction being
a wonderful display of orchids. There were also beautiful trees;
now there are only stumps, disfigurements and desolation--some of
the horrors of war. The gardens were laid waste by the Spaniards as
a military precaution. As they seem to have known that they could
not or would not put up a big fight for the city, what was the use
of the destructiveness displayed in the gardens, parks and along the
boulevards? The fashion of taking a garden and making a desert of it
and calling it one of the military necessities of war is, however,
not peculiar to the chieftains of Spain.

Crossing the bridge of Spain to the walled city and turning to the
right there are well-paved streets bordered with strips of park
beside the river, that is rushing the same way if you are going to
headquarters; and the object that tells where to turn off to find
the old gateway through the wall, with a drawbridge over the grassy
moat, is a Monument to Alphonse, whose memory it is the habit of
these people to celebrate. Approaching the city hall (headquarters)
there is a white-walled hospital to note; then comes a heavy mass of
buildings on a narrow street, and the small square already styled
in this article a park, and we arrive at the grand entrance of the
official edifice. The room devoted to ceremony is so spacious that one
must consent that magnitude is akin to grandeur. There is the usual
double stairway and a few stone steps to overcome. On the right and
left under the second lift of stairs were corded the Spanish Mausers
and Remingtons and many boxes of cartridges. I have several times
noticed soldiers tramping on loose cartridges as though they had no
objection at all to an explosion. You can tell the Mauser ammunition,
because the cartridges are in clips of five, and the little bullets
famous for their long flight are covered with nickel. The Remington
bullets are bigger and coated with brass. Something has been said to
the effect that the Remington balls used by the Spaniards are poisonous
and that it is uncivilized to manufacture them. The object of the
Mauser and Remington system in covering the bullets, the one with
nickel and the other with brass, is not to poison, but to prevent the
lead from fouling