Ormond and Manchester, and much London
company, though not so much as I expected. Here we had a very good
sermon upon this text: "In love serving one another;" which pleased me
very well. No news of the Queen at all. So to dinner; and then to the
Pay all the afternoon. Then W. Pen and I walked to the King's Yard, and
there lay at Mr. Tippets's, where exceeding well treated.
25th. All the morning at Portsmouth, at the Pay, and then to dinner,
and again to the Pay; and at night got the Doctor to go lie with me, and
much pleased with his company; but I was much troubled in my eyes, by
reason of the healths I have this day been forced to drink.
26th. Sir George' and I, and his clerk Mr. Stephens, and Mr. Holt our
guide, over to Gosport; and so rode to Southampton. In our way, besides
my Lord Southampton's' parks and lands, which in one view we could see
L6,000 per annum, we observed a little church-yard, where the graves are
accustomed to be all sowed with sage.
[Gough says, "It is the custom at this day all over Wales to strew
the graves, both within and without the church, with green herbs,
branches of box, flowers, rushes, and flags, for one year, after
which such as can afford it lay down a stone."--Brand's Popular
Antiquities, edited W. C. Hazlitt, vol. ii., p. 218.]
At Southampton we went to the Mayor's and there dined, and had sturgeon
of their own catching the last week, which do not happen in twenty
years, and it was well ordered. They brought us also some caveare, which
I attempted to order, but all to no purpose, for they had neither given
it salt enough, nor are the seedes of the roe broke, but are all in
berryes. The towne is one most gallant street, and is walled round with
stone, &c., and Bevis's picture upon one of the gates; many old walls of
religious houses, and the key, well worth seeing. After dinner to horse
again, being in nothing troubled but the badness of my hat, which I
borrowed to save my beaver. Home by night and wrote letters to London,
and so with Sir W. Pen to the Dock to bed.
27th (Sunday). Sir W. Pen got trimmed before me, and so took the coach
to Portsmouth to wait on my Lord Steward to church, and sent the coach
for me back again. So I rode to church, and met my Lord Chamberlain upon
the walls of the garrison, who owned and spoke to me. I followed him
in the crowd of gallants through the Queen's lodgings to chappell; the
rooms being all rarely furnished,
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