elf, more
strictly speaking, fell from the shoulders in a long, loose robe. In
the front there was a center trimming of black satin and lace and a
heavy ruffle of lace outlined the bust and suggested the waist. A few
jets were added. The back fitted closely, and around the foot extended
a deep band of the black.

Over the Rubens gown fell a robe of the satin. It was caught at each
shoulder and fell into a train three feet long when the wearer walked.
In repose it lay around her feet, giving her height and a becoming
setting.

The good points of this gown are, first, the way it showed off the
very plump neck of the wearer. The fine throat line was visible, but
at the shoulders, where too much massiveness takes the place of fine
firm flesh, the robe was draped. The arms were likewise covered at the
top, their thickest part, and, as the robe fell over them when in
repose, much of their apparent size disappeared.

The robe had one very odd feature. The train was a doublet one. The
back of the robe was little more than walking length, but the ends
were very long indeed. This made a square court train like a monarch's
robe, and could be easily brought front by the hand, for trimming or
drapery when the wearer was not walking.

Black Satin and Sparkling Jets.

In choosing the color of the gown to be snow-white instead of cream
color, the artist knew what he was specifying. White is a diminishing
color, while cream color enlarges. The same with black satin. Satin,
being full of lights and shades, is uncertain in size, and it is
preferable to silk or velvet, which makes the person thicker. The jets
are dressy, wicked little ornaments that wink at you unexpectedly and
disappear.

Much pains are taken in choosing colors, and then comes the artist's
real work. The hardest thing is to fit out his patrons with street
gowns that will be conventional, and yet Rubenesque. To do this he
takes advantage of the cape idea. A stout woman in a neat fitting
gown, not too close under the bust, looks picturesque with a golf cape
swinging from one shoulder. It gives her height. The dolmans that open
in front and fall low at each side are admirable also, according to
his ideas.

COLORS AND COMPLEXIONS.

[Illustration]

"A thing should be beautiful in itself, and it should be beautiful for
you." "Good dressing includes a suggestion of poetry;" but to gain
this poetic grace careful study must be made of hair, eyes and skin,
f